r/BdsmDIY

Part 1

Per some comments about making it pony themed, the working title of this project is "Valerie's Predicament" as a nod to the sawhorse brand and certain donkey of discworld fame. The opportunities for bad puns and jokes about splashing were just too good to pass up. It's just the VP Bench for short.

This week was about figuring out how to make the saddle work in all positions (face up, face down, standing, kneeling, etc.) without putting pressure on tendons and nerves. The result is something like an extra wide bicycle seat with a big notch taken out of the center. When kneeling or straddling it facing out, your sit bones rest on the flared part so even though it's bare wood it more comfortable than you'd expect. Kneeling face down your ASIS are on the padded portion (white cloth in the picture) If I can figure out how to cover the exposed wood with a thin layer of padding I will, but there isn't much room to play with.

I got one of the pivoting arm/leg supports mocked up (pictured), and it works better than expected. I need to fabricate one for real and do some destructive testing since these are the aspect of the build where I have the most concerns about durability. While I'm busy breaking things for science, I also need to build a scale model of this thing to figure out the assembly order and design of the center beam.

When not in use, the plan is to raise the arm/leg pivots to full height (table configuration) and put a 3'x5' desk top on it, with a bit of faux-structural shielding underneath to further disguise it's true nature. While it will be modular and collapsible, not having to set up and break down every time would be nice.

Lessons learned:

1. Add some grab bars and foot pegs to assist with getting on/off. Lying down on your back atop this thing is fine once you're there, but getting up and down without falling off is challenging bordering on dangerous.
2. When using it face up there should be a solid cap on the end. A little extra width and a solid surface will make lying down easier and more comfortable.
3. Add an upper cross brace to the legs to keep them from twisting, but keep it low enough that it won't interfere with a wand/FL/dildo attachments
4. Even though having the knee braces tipped in slightly is more comfortable when kneeling face down, it makes other positions worse so it's probably better to keep everything parallel to the floor.

Wife was kind enough to model

I wanted this in my life during a dynamic where I was being clicker trained, it took me a while to get it right.

User wise, It's super simple, and that's the beauty of it.

It lets you send a clicker noise to anyone anywhere. Recievers can use the desktop taskbar app or mobile app to get clicks, and senders can use the android app or webapp to send them.

It even has OpenShock support for naughty puppies. It's free, no ads, etc etc. I plan to keep it that way.

https://boundfire.com/puppyclicker

This is a standing desk I already owned, converted in to a Gyno exam table. The desk has an electric motor built in - so is (very) height adjustable. It's is incredibly stable and absolutely solid by design - so perfect for the task.

The Stirrups came from Ali Express (actually incredibly good quality, genuine items), and the angle brackets to fit them to the desk I sourced from a local fabricator (found online). I used some rubber matting to cut a gasket of sorts to keep everything stable once the angle brackets are in place (as they increase the distance between the legs and the table top).

Add in a yoga mat I cut to size, and well, you can see the results...

And of course - it's still a perfectly usable desk for wfh - my colleagues (and of, visitors) would never know... ;)

Hope everyone likes the results...

Hi, my Dom and I built a couple of small digital tools over the last few months and we put them online in case anyone else finds them useful.

Everything is absolutely free, with emphasis on privacy because we personally value it more than anything. In practice it means no accounts, no cookies, and no tracking.

What the tools are:

1. A kink quiz / interests questionnaire you can fill out just by yourself or with a partner. The quiz results stay only in your browser, nothing about your answers ever touches the server.

2. A small library of resources. I'm obsessed with organizing everything, and I've always wanted to have some kinky reading lists and my favorite YouTube channels in one place. This is my favorite part of the entire website, to be honest :)

3. An event directory. This one is Barcelona-only for now (just because that's where we live).

https://141kinks.com/

Happy to answer questions if anyone's curious.

(Part 1)

I was planning to build the classic Versahorse, but after reading This post from a few years ago I decided to try the approach of starting with a simple frame and experimenting to find what actually works best for the people who are going to be using it. This prototype currently looks like garbage but I have already learned a ton. My ultimate goal is to come up with something similar to the Versahorse in it's ability to quickly set up or take apart and fit under a bed, but be better for actual fucking in terms of being able to put the user at the correct angle and height for both face up & face down use.

I'll update this as the build continues, but I've already learned a ton about ergonomics that seemed worth sharing. Feel free to ask questions or offer suggestions; I'm hoping to turn this into a how-to guide when I'm all done and I'd like the design to be as flexible and easy to modify for different body dimensions as possible.

Materials used so far:

• Burro brand sawhorse
• 1/2 inch plywood scrap
• 1x6 pine scrap
• foam floor tiles

The only thing I bought was the sawhorse ($40), everything else was scrap that I already had. If I'd had to buy everything new it would still have come in under $100. The burro sawhorse is slightly cheaper than buying the raw materials to build it and it gives you a place to start. The down side is that it's put together with staples and glue, so taking it apart is a bit of a pain.

Lessons learned:

1. The sawhorse (and versahorse) are too wide to comfortably straddle. As built, the top on both is a about 6 inches wide even before padding, which digs into your inner thigh if you are sitting astride it. This compresses some nerves and can cause numbness/tingling in a matter of minutes. I ripped the beam down to 3" wide, making the overall width 4.5" before padding. 3" between the legs allows plenty of space for hands or toys. A fleshlight won't quite fit, but there's room to mount it just below (pictured).
2. Whatever hole you are planning on fucking should be no higher than your pubic symphysis (the bone you can feel at the base of the penis or mons), and not more than 2" less than your inseam.
3. Bodies aren't symmetric front to back, so both the height of holes and the angles are going to change depending on whether someone is face up or face down. The vagina will be about 1" higher than the top of the bench when they are face down, and 3" higher when they are face up. The anus is the reverse, but has a similar amount of change. If the finished height of the bench is 2-3 inches less than your inseam you will probably be able to make all holes/positions work, but some may not be ideal.
4. Angles matter just as much as height. If the person is face up both the vagina and rectum slope down at roughly 30°, meaning the entrance is the highest point. If they're face down these both slope up at 30°, meaning the entrance is the lowest point. Having some means to control pelvic tilt such as a foam wedge or adjustable seat will make things better for everyone involved. Since tilting the pelvis also changes the height of the holes, this solves two problems at once.
5. You don't need (or want) thick, squishy pads. You want enough padding under knees, elbows, and sit bones to prevent bruising, but if it's too soft you again risk compressing soft tissue & nerves. The single layer of EVA foam floor tile material I'm currently using is too hard, but only barely. The goal should be something about the firmness of a bicycle seat or weight bench.
6. Openings in most sex furniture for hands/toys are way too big. I've noticed that a lot of bondage chairs or rideables like the monkey rocker have openings that are quite wide. This may make for a nice visual, but can be bad for the user. Your sit bones (ischial tuberosities) are the protrusions on the bottom of the pelvis that are designed to carry your weight when sitting and they're about 4.5" apart in men, 5.5" in women. Sitting for more than a few minutes on something with an opening wider than this puts pressure on surrounding tissues not designed to handle the load, and can compress the sciatic nerve. Sometimes called "toilet seat neuropathy" because that's the most common cause of this injury, it is unpleasant and can cause nerve pain that may take weeks or months to resolve.
7. The Burro sawhorse has an outward angle of 15° on the legs. This makes the horse slightly tippy when climbing on. The 20° used by the versahorse is more stable and feels a bit more natural.
8. The arm supports should be level with the floor, but the leg supports are more comfortable angled slightly in. If the leg supports are set level, you have to work harder to keep your knees from sliding out to the side.

Finally made something in the new workshop.

I love hawthorn wood, always a beautiful colour

This is because I don’t want to push the missus to get a pair because her nipples are very sensitive and she doesn’t like to feel pain in there.

I bought the magnets first. But it was impossible to keep them in place and would fall off all the time. Sometimes would pinch your nipple skin when they eventually crush together and you’re in for a ride.

After that I tried to shape a piece of wire. But since nipples are soft and squishy they would open the loop themselves and again fall off.

Mind you I’m not trying to encircle the nipple with the wire, as that would solve the issue, but to keep the nipple in between the supports.

So I tried the third option. To try and combine both theories. And at a first test, it holds perfectly.

We need to test it during intense thrusting but apparently it stops the loop from trying to open on its own, and keeps the magnets centered away from each other so they don’t pinch your skin.

I'm using tinytuya (python library) to locally control my Tuya (cheap Chinese home automation (cloud controlled)) locally without the data leaving my local network. I used Claude code to vibe code myself a web UI to turn the socket on and off manually, via controllable sliders for on and off duration or have the values be random within the slider values. I connect a Hitachi vibrator to my cock and plug it into the outlet and the controller now can edge me. No video feed yet, but I can use something else for a video feed.

USB-C rechargeable of course

It is one of my first times using my new laser engraver on leather as well. It turned out really well but i might need to do an extra pass with the laser to give it a little more depth to make it a bit easier to read in low light.

Hello fellow kinksters! I reached out to a local fabricator to get a quote for making some custom stainless steel heart shaped d rings. This is the reference picture I gave him and he quoted $250 for just 6 of them. He also said the would be 1 1/8”, when the reference I gave him clearly shows they are 2 1/8”. When he said that, he said they would be a “bit” under the size I gave him. An inch is not a bit!! Something seems off. Does anyone with fabrication experience have any input? His price just feels too high, but I’m not positive. Attached reference picture:

I made a timer lock for posey style straitjacket(WIP).

If anyone interested with this, I will upload STL files in cults3d later.